Kawasaki

Kawasaki Station area

JR and Keikyu stations, the Azalea underground arcade and most hotels; easiest for Tokyo and Yokohama day trips.

Musashi-Kosugi

Tōkyū Tōyoko and Meguro lines plus JR Nambu, Yokosuka and Shonan-Shinjuku lines; more residential, good for Yokohama-side trips.

Shin-Maruko

Highway-side motel cluster near the Tama River; only useful if you drive.

Etiquette

• Greeting: A small bow; a handshake if the other person offers; avoid: Hugs, back slaps, loud greetings
• Names: Family name plus -san; avoid: First names unless invited; adding -san to your own name
• Paying: Put money in the tray at the register; avoid: Tipping, or leaving loose cash for staff
• Trains: Queue at the floor marks, phone on silent, ask before reclining on the Shinkansen; avoid: Phone calls, eating on crowded commuter trains, blocking doors with bags
• Escalators: Stand on the side locals use — left in Tokyo, right in Osaka; stations now ask people to stand still on both; avoid: Stopping at the top or bottom
• Shoes: Off at the step-up entrance; toilet slippers only inside the toilet; avoid: Stepping on tatami in shoes or slippers
• Shrines: Rinse hands at the basin; bow twice, clap twice, bow once; avoid: Walking down the centre of the approach, which is for the deity
• Gifts: Offer and receive with both hands; bring a small omiyage for hosts; avoid: Sets of four; cash outside an envelope

Scams and watch-outs

• Kanamara Matsuri is on the first Sunday in April and draws big crowds; the penis and vagina candy popsicles sell out by midday, so go early.
• The shrine's small sex museum opens erratically; ask the shrine shop attendant.
• Industrial-zone night walks have long dead-ends and few lights: take a map and stay off private land.
• Kawasaki Racecourse and the keirin track hold weekday and night meetings; check the schedule before you go.