Khiva

Inside Itchan Kala

Several guesthouses in old houses and former madrasas; walk to every monument and the city walls at sunrise.

Beside the western gate (Ota Darvoza)

Just outside the walls, easy taxi access, and slightly cheaper than rooms inside.

Dishan Kala (outer town)

Local streets and small guesthouses about 10 min from the gates; quieter and cheaper.

Etiquette

• Greeting: Right hand on heart with 'assalomu alaykum'; men shake hands with men; avoid: Offering a hand to a woman unless she offers first
• Home visit: Shoes off; bring sweets or fruit; sit where the host shows; avoid: Sitting with feet pointing at people or at the table spread (dastarkhan)
• Tea: Accept at least one bowl; avoid: Refusing everything offered
• Bread: Break it by hand, place it face up; avoid: Throwing bread away where people can see
• Dress: Long trousers or skirts in old towns and villages; avoid: Shorts and bare shoulders at religious sites
• Elders: Stand when they enter; let them eat first; avoid: Interrupting

Scams and watch-outs

• No airport in Khiva itself; plan the transfer from Urgench and add the time to your schedule.
• Summer heat is severe: the old town has little shade, so visit at sunrise and late afternoon.
• A combined ticket covers many monuments but not all; check what it includes and how long it lasts before you buy.
• Some minarets and towers charge separately for climbing; check at the gate.
• Winter nights are freezing, and many guesthouses close or heat poorly from December to February.