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Voykit pocket guide · Togo
Lomé
Lomé is a morning-and-dusk city: do the market and the cathedral before 11:00, rest at midday, take a car after dark, and carry small CFA notes; the airport is 15 minutes from the centre.
Lomé sits on the coast next to the Ghana border. The centre is compact and walkable by day, but heat, motorbike taxis (zémidjans) and traffic are constant and cards are accepted at few places. Four walking areas cover a first visit; Lake Togo, Togoville and the hills at Kpalimé are separate trips by car.
- Country
- Togo
- Best months
- Jan · Feb · Aug · Nov · Dec
- Time zone
- Africa/Lome
- Stay
- 2 days: Market and cathedral, beach road and museum
Checked 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change; anything marked (check) is not confirmed.
Essentials
- Currency
- XOF
- Money
- Cash rules: carry West African CFA francs (XOF) in small notes. Big hotels and a few restaurants take cards; ATMs in banks and hotels work but can be out of cash. Euros are accepted by some hotels, not by taxis or markets.
- Daily spend
- Budget XOF 5,000–12,000 excl. bed · Mid XOF 12,000–30,000 excl. bed · High XOF 30,000+ excl. bed (estimate; check)
- SIM and data
- Install an eSIM before you fly, or buy a local SIM in the airport or a phone shop; bring your passport (check).
- Emergency
- Police 117 · Fire 118 · Ambulance (SAMU, check) 8200
- Plugs
- 220 V; two-round-pin sockets (types C and E, check). Bring an adapter.
- Tipping
- Not required; round up or leave XOF 500–1,000 for good service in a restaurant.
- Water
- Do not drink the tap water: use sealed bottled water and skip ice of unknown origin.
- Toilets
- Hotels, cafés and larger restaurants; carry tissue and hand gel.
What things cost
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Coffee at a café | XOF 800–2,000 |
| Street breakfast | XOF 500–1,500 |
| Plate of fish or chicken with a side | XOF 2,000–5,000 |
| Large beer in a bar | XOF 1,000–2,000 |
| Zémidjan, short ride | XOF 300–1,000 |
| Taxi across town | XOF 1,500–4,000 |
| Bottled water, 1.5 l | XOF 300–600 |
| Museum ticket | XOF 1,000–2,000 |
Desk estimates, checked 2026-09; check locally.
Get in
By air
- Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport (LFW)
- LFW to the centre: one pre-booked hotel pickup or an agreed-fare taxi, 15–35 minutes; the risk is a night arrival with no ride arranged, not the distance.
By rail and road
| Station | Serves | To the centre |
|---|---|---|
| Gnassingbé Eyadéma International Airport (LFW) (Aéroport de Lomé) | International flights from West Africa, Europe and beyond | Taxi or hotel pickup 15–35 min, about XOF 5,000–8,000 |
| Aflao border crossing (Ghana) | Coaches and taxis to Accra | About 20 min by taxi |
| Hillacondji border crossing (Benin) | Coaches and taxis to Cotonou | About 1 h by taxi |
| Regional coach and bush-taxi stations | Routes to Kpalimé, Aného and the north | 15–30 min by taxi |
Typical fares
- Airport taxi to the centre
- About XOF 5,000–8,000, 15–35 min
- Zémidjan, short ride
- About XOF 300–1,000
- Taxi across town
- About XOF 1,500–4,000
Show 8 more sections and the pocket cardHideGet around, See and do, Eat, Sleep, Phrase card, Etiquette, safety and scams, One and two days, Sources, Pocket card
Get around
A taxi between areas and walking inside one, by daylight. Zémidjan motorbike taxis are the everyday transport but carry real risk.
| How | Fare | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free | A short loop inside one area by day |
| Taxi | XOF 1,500–4,000 across town | Between areas and at night |
| Zémidjan (motorbike taxi) | XOF 300–1,000 | Short hops when a taxi is not available |
| Shared taxi (collectif) | XOF 200–500 | Fixed routes on main roads |
| Hired car with a driver | XOF 25,000–50,000 a day (check) | Day trips and a full city tour |
Fares are estimates; check before you ride.
- Passes
- No pass. Agree the taxi fare before you get in; a hired car by the hour is cheaper for a tour.
- Late at night
- No rail. Taxis run all night but availability drops after 22:00: ask the hotel to book the ride back.
See and do
01Grand Marché before 10:00
The city's central market: cloth, spices and daily life.
Hours: best 07:30–10:00 · Price: Free · Time: 45–60 minHours: best 7:30 AM–10:00 AM · Price: Free · Time: 45–60 min · 6.1290, 1.2240
02The cloth lanesLe marché des pagnes
Wax-print cloth and tailoring; compare three stalls.
Hours: best Before 10:00 · Price: XOF 3,000–25,000 for cloth · Time: 45–75 minHours: best Before 10:00 AM · Price: XOF 3,000–25,000 for cloth · Time: 45–75 min · 6.1282, 1.2232
03Sacré-Cœur CathedralCathédrale du Sacré-Cœur
A cool, quiet stop with colonial-era architecture.
Hours: best Outside Mass · Price: Free · Time: 15–30 min · 6.1338, 1.2255
04National Museum of TogoMusée national du Togo
Togolese history and craft in an indoor hour.
Hours: best Late morning · Price: XOF 1,000–2,000 · Time: 45–60 min · 6.1345, 1.2245
05Akoumé and a stew for lunchAkoumé et gboma dessi
The Ewe staple in a local canteen.
Hours: best 12:00–14:00 · Price: XOF 1,500–4,000 · Time: 45–60 minHours: best 12:00 PM–2:00 PM · Price: XOF 1,500–4,000 · Time: 45–60 min · 6.1348, 1.2249
06The beach road at duskBoulevard de la République
A sea breeze and the day cooling down.
Hours: best 17:00 to dusk · Price: Free · Time: 45 minHours: best 5:00 PM to dusk · Price: Free · Time: 45 min · 6.1225, 1.2165
07Grilled fish on the beach roadPoisson braisé
Choose the fish and eat by the sea.
Hours: best 17:30–20:30 · Price: XOF 3,000–8,000 · Time: 1 hHours: best 5:30 PM–8:30 PM · Price: XOF 3,000–8,000 · Time: 1 h · 6.1224, 1.2168
08The Deux Février loopQuartier Deux Février
The calm hotel and government quarter on foot.
Hours: best Early morning · Price: Free · Time: 30 min · 6.1410, 1.2160
09Akodessewa fetish market with a guide
A working vodun market; with a guide and permission.
Hours: best Morning · Price: Entry and guide, agree first · Time: 1–2 h
10Lake Togo day trip
A quiet lake town and boat ride away from the city.
Hours: best Dry season · Price: Driver or guide · Time: Full day
Hours and prices are desk estimates (checked 2026-09); anything marked (check) is not confirmed. Coordinates open in any map app.
Day trips
| Where | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Lake Togo and Togoville | Car or shared taxi about 45–60 min, then a boat or a bridge (check) | Full day |
| Aného (Little Popo) | Car or bush taxi about 1 h each way | Full day |
| Kpalimé and the Plateau Region | Car about 2.5–3.5 h each way | Overnight |
| Ouidah, Benin | Car via the Hillacondji border, about 3 h with checks | Full day |
| Accra, Ghana | Car or coach about 3.5–5 h with the Aflao border | Full day or more |
Eat
| Where | What · area | Price | Tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| Street breakfast (pain-omelette and coffee) | Bread and omelette, coffee · Near the market | XOF 500–1,500 | Budget |
| Roadside brochettes and grilled chicken | Skewers or chicken with a side · Main roads at dusk | XOF 500–2,000 (check) | Budget |
| Fried plantain and beans | Aloko and atassi · Markets and street corners | XOF 500–1,500 | Budget |
| Maquis lunch | Grilled fish or chicken with a side · Near the market | XOF 2,000–5,000 | Mid-range |
| Akoumé with a stew (gboma dessi) | Akoumé with a leaf-and-fish stew · Cathedral quarter | XOF 1,500–4,000 | Mid-range |
| Beach grilled fish | Whole grilled fish · Beach road | XOF 3,000–8,000 | Mid-range |
| Air-conditioned café (juice, pastry, coffee) | Juice and pastry in AC · Cathedral quarter | XOF 1,500–4,500 | Mid-range |
| Hotel restaurants | French and local menus · Deux Février and the centre | XOF 10,000–30,000 (check) | Splurge |
Per person, one dish or one meal, 2026 estimate. Menus are often spoken and prices change — ask before you order.
Sleep
| Band | Price a night | Where | What |
|---|---|---|---|
| budget | XOF 15,000–30,000 double | Centre-ville and side streets | Guesthouses and small hotels |
| mid | XOF 40,000–90,000 | Centre-ville and Deux Février | Three-star hotels |
| splurge | XOF 120,000–250,000+ | Deux Février | International chain hotels |
Per room per night in XOF, 2026 estimate; December and January can add 20–40%.
Phrase card
| English | Say or show |
|---|---|
| Hello | Bonjourbon-ZHOOR |
| Thank you | Mercimair-SEE |
| How much is it? | C'est combien ?say kom-BYAN |
| To this address, please | À cette adresse, s'il vous plaîtah set ah-DRESS seel voo PLAY |
| Slowly, please | Doucement, s'il vous plaîtdoos-MOHN seel voo PLAY |
| Thank you (Ewe) | Akpeahk-PAY |
| Welcome (Ewe) | Woezorweh-ZOR |
| I need help | J'ai besoin d'aidezhay buh-ZWAN dehd |
Etiquette, safety and scams
Etiquette
- Greetings: Greet before you ask anything: 'Bonjour', then the question; handshakes are common, often with a light finger snap.
- Left hand: Eat and pass things with the right hand; the left is considered unclean.
- Photos: Ask before photographing people; never photograph police, soldiers, government buildings or the border.
- Dress: Cover shoulders and knees in markets and churches; beachwear stays at the beach.
- Bargaining: Be friendly and firm; walk away if the price does not fall.
- Vodun: Ask before entering any shrine or ceremony; do not touch objects and follow your guide.
Red lines
- Do not photograph police, soldiers, government buildings or the border.
- Ask before photographing people, market traders and vodun ceremonies.
- Dress modestly in the market and the cathedral.
Scams and watch-outs
- Taxi and zémidjan fares that rise after you get in: agree the price and the destination before you sit down.
- Helpers at the market who lead you to a stall and expect a large payment: decline politely or agree a price first.
- Street money changers with 'good rates': use a bank or hotel and count the notes.
- Fake officials or fee collectors near the airport or the border asking for 'fees': ask for a receipt and ask your hotel.
One and two days
1 day
A stopover or a day between flights. Skip: The east-side markets and any long day trip.
- 07:307:30 AMGrand Marché and the cloth lanes
- 10:0010:00 AMSacré-Cœur Cathedral
- 11:0011:00 AMNational Museum of Togo
- 12:3012:30 PMLunch at a maquis
- 14:002:00 PMAir-conditioned rest
- 17:005:00 PMBeach road and grilled fish
2 days
The usual Lomé stay. Skip: Trying to fit Lake Togo into a two-day stay.
Day 1 — market and cathedral
- 07:307:30 AMGrand Marché
- 09:009:00 AMThe cloth lanes
- 10:3010:30 AMSacré-Cœur Cathedral
- 12:3012:30 PMLunch
- 17:005:00 PMBeach road at dusk
Day 2 — museum and quiet quarter
- 07:307:30 AMNational Museum of Togo
- 09:309:30 AMDeux Février loop
- 12:0012:00 PMAkoumé lunch
- 17:305:30 PMGrilled fish on the beach road
Sources
Written by Voykit; facts cross-checked against these sources, last desk check 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change: check on the day.
- Republic of Togo official portal: www.republicoftogo.com/
- Togo e-visa portal (official): voyage.gouv.tg/
- UK FCDO travel advice — Togo: www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/togo
- Wikivoyage — Lomé: en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lom%C3%A9
Pocket card
Cut along the border and keep it in your wallet. Show the local-script lines to a driver.
Lomé
À cette adresse, s'il vous plaît
To this address, please
My hotel (write the name and address in the local script)
Take me to
- Le marché des pagnesCloth lanes of the Grand Marché (pagnes)
- Cathédrale du Sacré-CœurSacré-Cœur Cathedral
- Musée national du TogoNational Museum of Togo
- Akoumé et gboma dessiAkoumé with a stew (gboma dessi)
- Boulevard de la RépubliqueBeach road walk
- Poisson braiséBeach grilled fish
Write your own embassy's 24-hour number below; most are in the Deux Février and centre areas.
Show your hotel's name, address and phone number on your phone or on paper; street names are not always used.
Voykit · checked 2026-09
Printed from Voykit (/lome). Written by Voykit; checked 2026-09. Estimates only: confirm prices, hours and entry rules on the day.