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Voykit pocket guide · Georgia
Tbilisi
თბილისი
Tbilisi is a slope city: do the old town and the fortress in the morning, take the afternoon on Rustaveli's flat streets, and eat khinkali at midday — and keep the airport transfer booked, because most flights land in the small hours.
Tbilisi's sights sit along one river valley, and the old town climbs steeply up to the Narikala fortress. The failures are practical: a 04:00 landing with no room ready, a suitcase on the cobbles of Sololaki, and a church door you can't enter in shorts. Four clusters cover a first visit on foot, with a short taxi ride between them for a few lari.
- Country
- Georgia
- Local name
- თბილისი
- Best months
- Mar · Apr · May · Jun · Sep · Oct · Nov
- Time zone
- Asia/Tbilisi
- Stay
- 2 days: Old town + Narikala, Freedom Square and Rustaveli
Checked 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change; anything marked (check) is not confirmed.
Essentials
- Currency
- GEL
- Money
- Cards and contactless work in hotels, most restaurants, malls and supermarkets; keep lari cash for marshrutka minibuses, markets, bakeries and small cafés. Pay in lari and decline any offer to charge in your home currency.
- Daily spend
- Budget ₾70–120 excl. bed · Mid ₾120–250 excl. bed · High ₾250+ excl. bed (estimate; check)
- SIM and data
- Install an eSIM before you fly, or buy a SIM from Magti, Silknet or Cellfie at the airport or a shop in town with your passport.
- Emergency
- Emergency (police 112
- Plugs
- 220 V, 50 Hz; types C and F, the same two-pin plugs as most of Europe.
- Tipping
- About 10% in restaurants; many add a 10% service charge to the bill, so check before adding more. Round up for taxi and app drivers.
- Water
- Tap water is drinkable in most of Tbilisi; many people still buy bottled. Borjomi and Nabeglavi mineral waters are sold everywhere and taste of minerals.
- Toilets
- Cafés, malls, museums and metro-station areas; carry a coin or two. Public toilets in old-town squares are few.
What things cost
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Coffee (espresso at a café) | ₾5–10 |
| Khinkali (per piece) | ₾1.5–3 |
| Beer: draught half litre / bottle in a bar | ₾6–12 / ₾8–14 |
| 5 km (3.1 mi) ride-hail car3.1 mi (5 km) ride-hail car | ₾6–12 |
| Metro or bus ride | ₾1 |
| Tourist SIM or eSIM, about a week | ₾10–30 |
| Museum or cathedral entry | ₾0–20 |
Desk estimates, checked 2026-09; check locally.
Get in
By air
- Tbilisi International Airport (TBS)
- TBS to the old town: one ride-hail or taxi car, 30–55 minutes — the trap is a 03:00 landing and a hotel that has not held your room.TBS to the old town: one ride-hail or taxi car, 30–55 minutes — the trap is a 3:00 AM landing and a hotel that has not held your room.
By rail and road
| Station | Serves | To the centre |
|---|---|---|
| Tbilisi Central Railway Station (თბილისის ცენტრალური რკინიგზის სადგური) | Batumi, Kutaisi, Zugdidi; the overnight train to Yerevan (seasonal) | Metro to Freedom Square (about 10 min) or a car 15 min |
| Didube bus station (დიდუბის ავტოსადგური) | North and north-west: Mtskheta, Kazbegi, Gori, Kutaisi | Metro 15 min or a car 15–20 min |
| Ortachala bus station (ორთაჭალის ავტოსადგური) | South and south-east: Bakuriani, Borjomi, Armenia and Azerbaijan routes (check) | Car 15 min |
| Samgori bus stop (სამგორი) | Kakheti: Sighnaghi, Telavi, Lagodekhi | Metro about 20 min to Freedom Square |
| Land borders | Sarpi (Turkey), Sadakhlo (Armenia), Red Bridge (Azerbaijan) | 2.5–5 h by road |
Typical fares
- Airport → centre, app car
- ₾20–35, 25–40 min
- Airport → Station Square, bus 337
- about ₾1, about 40 min (check)
- App car across the centre
- ₾5–12
Show 8 more sections and the pocket cardHideGet around, See and do, Eat, Sleep, Phrase card, Etiquette, safety and scams, One and two days, Sources, Pocket card
Get around
Walk inside a cluster; ride-hail between them. The metro connects Station Square, Rustaveli, Freedom Square and Avlabari along the river valley; buses are slow but cheap.
| How | Fare | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free | Inside the old town, Sololaki and Rustaveli |
| Ride-hail car (Bolt, Yandex Go) | ₾5–12 across the centre | Between clusters, bags, night |
| Metro | ₾1 | Station Square, Rustaveli, Freedom Square, Avlabari, Didube |
| City bus | ₾1 | Airport bus 337; hill neighbourhoods |
| Cable car (Rike Park to Narikala) | ₾2.50–4 (check) | Saving the climb to the fortress |
| Mtatsminda funicular | ₾3–6 (check) | Views and a small amusement park |
| Metered or street taxi | Agree first | When apps are slow |
| Rented scooter or bike | ₾40–80 a day | Only if you ride confidently |
Fares are estimates; check before you ride.
- Passes
- No pass needed: a Metromoney card pays for itself after a few rides; ride-hailing is cheap for short hops.
- Late at night
- The metro stops around midnight; ride-hailing runs all night.
See and do
01Narikala Fortressნარიყალა
The ramparts over the whole old town, reached by cable car or a steep climb.
Hours: best Opening or dusk · Price: Free; cable car ₾2.50–4 · Time: 1 h · 41.6877, 44.8086
02Sulphur baths in Abanotubaniაბანოთუბანი
A private bath room in a brick-domed house is the classic Tbilisi evening.
Hours: best Late afternoon or evening · Price: ₾60–200 a room · Time: 1–1.5 h · 41.6883, 44.8108
03Sioni Cathedralსიონის საკათედრო ტაძარი
A small, dark church with frescoes on the walk down from the fortress.
Hours: best Morning · Price: Free · Time: 15 min · 41.6914, 44.8075
04Khinkali lunchხინკლის სახლი
The city’s defining dish: dumplings eaten by hand.
Hours: best Before 13:00 or after 15:00 · Price: ₾12–25 · Time: 45 minHours: best Before 1:00 PM or after 3:00 PM · Price: ₾12–25 · Time: 45 min · 41.6909, 44.8016
05Rustaveli Avenue at golden hourრუსთაველის გამზირი
A flat, shaded boulevard of theatres, museums and cafés.
Hours: best 17:00–19:30 · Price: Free · Time: 45 minHours: best 5:00 PM–7:30 PM · Price: Free · Time: 45 min · 41.6987, 44.7993
06Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba)წმინდა სამება
The largest Orthodox cathedral in the Caucasus, with a city view from the courtyard.
Hours: best Opening or after 16:00 · Price: Free · Time: 40 minHours: best Opening or after 4:00 PM · Price: Free · Time: 40 min · 41.7098, 44.8172
07Freedom Squareთავისუფლების მოედანი
The St George column, the old city hall and the start of Rustaveli.
Hours: best Evening · Price: Free · Time: 15 min · 41.6933, 44.8017
08A qvevri wine flightღვინის ბარი
Amber and red wine made in buried clay vessels, with cheese and pkhali.
Hours: best 18:00–21:00 · Price: ₾40–80 · Time: 1.5 hHours: best 6:00 PM–9:00 PM · Price: ₾40–80 · Time: 1.5 h · 41.6915, 44.8005
09Hot shotis puri from a tone bakeryთონე
Bread from the clay oven wall for about ₾1–2.
Hours: best 07:00–10:00 · Price: ₾1–5 · Time: 10 minHours: best 7:00 AM–10:00 AM · Price: ₾1–5 · Time: 10 min · 41.6923, 44.8025
10Mtskheta and Jvari monastery
The old capital with a UNESCO-listed cathedral and hilltop monastery, 25–30 minutes away.
Hours: best Before 10:00 · Price: Taxi ₾40–70 return; check · Time: Half dayHours: best Before 10:00 AM · Price: Taxi ₾40–70 return; check · Time: Half day
Hours and prices are desk estimates (checked 2026-09); anything marked (check) is not confirmed. Coordinates open in any map app.
Day trips
| Where | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Mtskheta (Jvari and Svetitskhoveli) | Marshrutka from Didube or a taxi, about 25–30 min each way | Half day |
| Kakheti wine country (Sighnaghi, Telavi) | Marshrutka about 2–2.5 h each way, or a driver | Full day |
| Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) | Marshrutka from Didube about 3 h each way, or a driver | Full day; overnight is better |
| Uplistsikhe and Gori | Car about 1.5 h each way, or marshrutka to Gori | Full day |
| Davit Gareja | Car or tour about 2.5 h each way | Full day |
Eat
| Where | What · area | Price | Tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| A khinkali house near Freedom Square (pick on the day) | Khinkali · Sololaki | ₾12–25 for 6–8 pieces | Budget |
| A tone bakery (pick on the day) | Shotis puri and khachapuri from a tone oven · Sololaki and old town | ₾2–15 | Budget |
| Lobiani and khachapuri counters | Bean-stuffed and cheese bread · Old Tbilisi | ₾6–14 | Budget |
| Deserter Bazaar food stalls | Cheese, fruit, pickles, bread · Station Square | ₾5–15 | Budget |
| Barbarestan | Historical recipe menu · Sololaki | ₾50–90 | Mid-range |
| Café Stamba | Modern Georgian and international · Vera | ₾40–75 (check) | Mid-range |
| A qvevri wine bar (pick on the day) | Wine flight and small plates · Sololaki | ₾40–80 | Mid-range |
| Georgian family restaurants | Mtsvadi (grilled meat), lobio, salads · Old town and Vera | ₾30–60 (check) | Mid-range |
| Chef-led tasting menus | Modern Georgian with wine pairing · Sololaki and Vera | ₾150–350 (check) | Splurge |
| Hotel restaurants with a view | Georgian and Mediterranean · Old town and Rustaveli | ₾120–250 | Splurge |
Per person, one dish or one meal, 2026 estimate. Addresses change: check the day before.
Sleep
| Band | Price a night | Where | What |
|---|---|---|---|
| budget | ₾40–70 dorm bed · ₾110–200 double | Sololaki, Chugureti, Marjanishvili | Hostels, family guesthouses |
| mid | ₾200–450 | Sololaki, Rustaveli, Vera | Boutique hotels, 3–4 star chains |
| splurge | ₾600–1,500+ | Old town, Rustaveli, hillside hotels | Restored mansions, international chains |
| mid | ₾150–350 (cheaper by the week) | Vera, Vake, Saburtalo | Serviced apartments |
Per room per night in lari, 2026 estimate; Tbilisoba, New Year and Easter add 30–80%.
Phrase card
| English | Say or show |
|---|---|
| Hello | გამარჯობაgah-mar-JOH-bah |
| Thank you | მადლობაmahd-LOH-bah |
| How much is it? | რა ღირს?rah GHEERS |
| Delicious! | გემრიელია!gem-ree-EH-lee-ah |
| Cheers | გაუმარჯოსgah-oo-MAR-jos |
| The bill, please | ანგარიში, გთხოვთahn-gah-REE-shee, GTKHOVT |
| Please take me to this address | მიმიყვანეთ ამ მისამართზეmee-mee-KVAH-net ahm mee-sah-MARTZ-eh |
| Yes / No | დიახ / არაdee-AKH / AH-rah |
Etiquette, safety and scams
Etiquette
- Churches: Women cover heads, shoulders and knees; men no shorts and hats off. Cross yourself only if you wish; do not talk loudly during services.
- Feasts and toasts: Wait for the tamada's toast before drinking; do not clink beer with wine glasses; sip wine slowly.
- Homes: Take shoes off if others do; bring a small gift (sweets or wine) if invited.
- Tipping: About 10%; check whether service is already on the bill.
- Photos: Ask before photographing people, especially older men and women at church; no photos of worshippers.
- Public speech: Politics, Russia and the conflicts in Abkhazia and South Ossetia are sensitive topics; listen more than you argue.
Red lines
- Orthodox churches: heads and shoulders covered for women, no shorts for men, no photos during services.
- Do not walk out of Georgian-controlled land toward Abkhazia or South Ossetia.
- Do not accept a driver's unpriced airport ride; use the app or agree the fare first.
Scams and watch-outs
- Airport drivers who quote a flat 'tourist' fare in euros or dollars: use a ride-hailing app or agree the price in lari first.
- Unmetered street taxis near Freedom Square and the old town: the fare is invented at the end; order a car in the app instead.
- Restaurant bills with 10% service already added, then a tip requested on top: read the bill line by line.
- Street money changers: use a bank or a licensed exchange office, and count the notes at the counter.
- Menus without prices in tourist streets (Shardeni, Erekle II): ask for the price of wine by the glass and by the bottle before ordering.
One and two days
1 day
A stopover or a long layover. Skip: Sameba Cathedral and day trips: they need their own morning.
- 08:308:30 AMCable car to Narikala and the ramparts
- 10:0010:00 AMSteps down to Sioni Cathedral
- 11:0011:00 AMWalk the bath district lane
- 13:001:00 PMKhinkali lunch in Sololaki
- 15:003:00 PMRest, or a café on Rustaveli
- 17:305:30 PMRustaveli Avenue and Freedom Square
- 19:307:30 PMWine bar and dinner
Sources
Written by Voykit; facts cross-checked against these sources, last desk check 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change: check on the day.
- Georgian National Tourism Administration: georgia.travel/
- Wikivoyage — Tbilisi: en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tbilisi
Pocket card
Cut along the border and keep it in your wallet. Show the local-script lines to a driver.
Tbilisiთბილისი
მიმიყვანეთ ამ მისამართზე
Please take me to this address
My hotel (write the name and address in the local script)
Take me to
- ნარიყალაNarikala Fortress
- აბანოთუბანიAbanotubani (sulphur bath district)
- სიონის საკათედრო ტაძარიSioni Cathedral
- ხინკლის სახლიA khinkali house near Freedom Square (pick on the day)
- რუსთაველის გამზირიRustaveli Avenue
- წმინდა სამებაHoly Trinity Cathedral (Sameba)
- Emergency (police112
Most embassies are in the central and Vake districts; check your own embassy's address and write its 24-hour line below.
Show the address in Georgian and English; screenshot the map pin for drivers.
Voykit · checked 2026-09
Printed from Voykit (/tbilisi). Written by Voykit; checked 2026-09. Estimates only: confirm prices, hours and entry rules on the day.