Yuzawa

Yuzawa Station area (Omotemachi)

Business hotels and the station bars; the only place where you can walk to dinner.

Akinomiya Onsen

Ryokan and onsen village on Highway 108, about 30 min by car south of the centre.

Oyasu-kyo Onsen

Gorge-side onsen lodgings; quiet, car needed, closed in by snow in winter.

Innai (southern Yuzawa)

Ryokan beside Innai Station on the JR Ou line; useful if you are moving by train.

Etiquette

• Greeting: A small bow; a handshake if the other person offers; avoid: Hugs, back slaps, loud greetings
• Names: Family name plus -san; avoid: First names unless invited; adding -san to your own name
• Paying: Put money in the tray at the register; avoid: Tipping, or leaving loose cash for staff
• Trains: Queue at the floor marks, phone on silent, ask before reclining on the Shinkansen; avoid: Phone calls, eating on crowded commuter trains, blocking doors with bags
• Escalators: Stand on the side locals use — left in Tokyo, right in Osaka; stations now ask people to stand still on both; avoid: Stopping at the top or bottom
• Shoes: Off at the step-up entrance; toilet slippers only inside the toilet; avoid: Stepping on tatami in shoes or slippers
• Shrines: Rinse hands at the basin; bow twice, clap twice, bow once; avoid: Walking down the centre of the approach, which is for the deity
• Gifts: Offer and receive with both hands; bring a small omiyage for hosts; avoid: Sets of four; cash outside an envelope

Scams and watch-outs

• Kawarage Jigoku is closed in winter, roughly November to early May.
• The Oyasu Gorge walking path shuts from mid-November to late April; the opening date depends on snow.
• Roads to Kawarage Oyutaki Falls close in winter.
• Never drive after drinking: any alcohol in your system is illegal, and police watch for it. Sleeping in a car is common but check the morning after.
• Many restaurants and the udon shops keep short hours and close one or two days a week; check before you drive out.