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Voykit pocket guide · Nepal
Kathmandu
काठमाडौँ
Kathmandu is a dawn-and-dusk city: do the temple squares and the stupa before 10:00, leave the afternoon for cafés and rest, and never plan a transfer on a strike day.
Kathmandu's sights are old, close together and crowded, and the streets between them are dusty, narrow and shared with motorbikes. The trips that go wrong drag suitcases through Thamel at night, walk at noon in the smoke haze, or book a flight out on the morning of a festival or strike. Four clusters cover a first visit: Thamel to sleep and eat, Durbar Square, Boudhanath and Patan. Bhaktapur and the valley rim are trips from one kept bed.
- Country
- Nepal
- Local name
- काठमाडौँ
- Best months
- Jan · Feb · Mar · Oct · Nov · Dec
- Time zone
- Asia/Kathmandu
- Stay
- 2 days: Durbar Square morning + Thamel evening
Checked 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change; anything marked (check) is not confirmed.
Essentials
- Currency
- NPR
- Money
- Cash (NPR) for small shops, taxis, food stalls and entry fees; cards at hotels, malls and upmarket restaurants. ATMs are inside banks and hotels.
- Daily spend
- Budget NPR 2,000–4,000 excl. bed · Mid NPR 4,000–9,000 excl. bed · High NPR 9,000+ excl. bed (estimate; check)
- SIM and data
- Buy an Ncell or Nepal Telecom SIM at the airport or a branded shop with your passport and a photo; registration is required.
- Emergency
- Police 100 · Fire 101 · Ambulance 102 · Tourist Police 1144
- Plugs
- 230 V, 50 Hz; type C, D and M sockets are common. Bring a universal adapter.
- Tipping
- Not expected at tea stalls. 10% in sit-down restaurants if a service charge is not already added; small tips for guides, drivers and porters.
- Water
- Do not drink tap water; use bottled or filtered water.
- Toilets
- Hotels, cafés and malls; carry tissues and small coins. Public toilets are rare.
What things cost
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Chiya (milk tea) | NPR 30–80 |
| Momo plate (8–10 pieces) | NPR 200–400 |
| Dal bhat set lunch | NPR 350–800 |
| Beer, bar or restaurant | NPR 400–800 |
| Short taxi ride | NPR 300–700 |
| Airport taxi to Thamel | NPR 800–1,500 |
| Monument entry, foreigner | NPR 400–1,000 |
| Tourist SIM, about a week | NPR 600–1,500 |
Desk estimates, checked 2026-09; check locally.
Get in
By air
- Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM)
- KTM to Thamel: a pre-booked hotel pickup or a prepaid airport taxi, 30–60 minutes for about 6 km (3.7 mi); the delay is the visa desk and baggage hall, not the road.KTM to Thamel: a pre-booked hotel pickup or a prepaid airport taxi, 30–60 minutes for about 3.7 mi (6 km); the delay is the visa desk and baggage hall, not the road.
By rail and road
| Station | Serves | To the centre |
|---|---|---|
| Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) (Tribhuvan Antarrashtriya Bimanasthal) | International and domestic flights; about 6 km (3.7 mi) east of ThamelInternational and domestic flights; about 3.7 mi (6 km) east of Thamel | Taxi 20–60 min |
| Kalanki and Gongabu bus parks (Bus parks) | Long-distance buses to Pokhara, Chitwan, Bhaktapur and the far west | Taxi 20–45 min |
| Tourist bus stops (Sorhakhutte, Thamel) (Tourist bus) | Tourist coaches to Pokhara, Chitwan and Lumbini | Already there or a short taxi |
| Domestic flights (Pokhara, Lukla, Chitwan) (Domestic terminal) | Short flights, including mountain flights to Lukla (Everest region) | Taxi 20–60 min |
Typical fares
- Airport to Thamel, taxi
- NPR 800–1,500, 20–60 min depending on traffic
- Short taxi ride, centre
- NPR 300–700
- Thamel to Boudhanath, taxi
- NPR 800–1,500, 30–60 min
Show 8 more sections and the pocket cardHideGet around, See and do, Eat, Sleep, Phrase card, Etiquette, safety and scams, One and two days, Sources, Pocket card
Get around
Walk inside a cluster; taxi or ride-hailing between clusters; micro-bus and tempo only if you know the route. Traffic is heavy: allow double the map time, avoid rush hours (about 08:30–10:30 and 16:30–19:00), and expect dust.Walk inside a cluster; taxi or ride-hailing between clusters; micro-bus and tempo only if you know the route. Traffic is heavy: allow double the map time, avoid rush hours (about 8:30 AM–10:30 AM and 4:30 PM–7:00 PM), and expect dust.
| How | Fare | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free | Inside Thamel and the old core |
| Taxi | Agree first: NPR 300–700 for a short ride | Between clusters |
| Ride-hailing (Pathao, inDrive) | NPR 200–1,200 across the city | Between clusters, night |
| Rickshaw (cycle) | Agree first: NPR 200–500 | Short hops in Thamel and Durbar Square |
| Micro-bus and tempo | NPR 20–50 | Adventurous local routes |
| Motorbike taxi (Pathao Bike) | NPR 100–400 | Solo travellers in traffic |
| Hired car with driver | NPR 5,000–9,000 a day (check) | Multi-stop days and Bhaktapur |
| Tourist bus and domestic flight | Varies | Pokhara, Chitwan, Lukla |
Fares are estimates; check before you ride.
- Passes
- No pass. Short taxi rides inside the valley are cheap; agree the fare before you get in.
- Late at night
- No rail: taxis and ride-hailing are thinner after dark and in heavy rain. Ask your hotel to book the late ride.
See and do
01Boudhanath at dawn or duskबौद्ध स्तूप
A huge white stupa with pilgrims circling and monasteries around it.
Hours: best Dawn or dusk · Price: About NPR 400 (check) · Time: 1–1.5 h · 27.7215, 85.3620
02Kathmandu Durbar Squareकाठमाडौँ दरबार क्षेत्र
The old royal square with temples and palaces of the Malla kings.
Hours: best Early morning · Price: About NPR 1,000 (check) · Time: 1.5–2 h · 27.7042, 85.3070
03Patan Durbar Square and museumपाटन दरबार क्षेत्र
A compact, well-kept square with a fine museum of metalwork.
Hours: best Morning · Price: About NPR 1,000 (check) · Time: 2–3 h · 27.6726, 85.3253
04Pashupatinathपशुपतिनाथ मन्दिर
The great Shiva temple complex on the Bagmati, with ghats and sadhus.
Hours: best Late afternoon · Price: About NPR 1,000 (check) · Time: 1–1.5 h · 27.7105, 85.3487
05Kumari Gharकुमारी घर
The house of the living goddess, with a carved wooden courtyard.
Hours: best Morning · Price: Included with the square (check) · Time: 20–30 min · 27.7043, 85.3069
06Golden Temple, Patanहिरण्यवर्ण महाविहार
A gilded monastery courtyard alive with monks and offerings.
Hours: best Morning · Price: About NPR 50–100 (check) · Time: 20–30 min · 27.6737, 85.3262
07Swayambhunath at sunrise
A hilltop stupa with a view over the valley.
Hours: best Sunrise · Price: About NPR 200 (check) · Time: 1.5 h
08Dal bhat lunch
The national meal, served with unlimited rice and dal.
Hours: best 12:00–14:00 · Price: NPR 350–800 · Time: 45 minHours: best 12:00 PM–2:00 PM · Price: NPR 350–800 · Time: 45 min · 27.7151, 85.3122
09Momo at Boudha
Nepal's favourite dumpling in a Tibetan neighbourhood.
Hours: best Lunch · Price: NPR 200–400 · Time: 30–45 min · 27.7212, 85.3618
10Bhaktapur day trip
A medieval town with a quiet square and potters' lanes.
Hours: best Weekday morning · Price: About NPR 1,800 (check) · Time: Half day
Hours and prices are desk estimates (checked 2026-09); anything marked (check) is not confirmed. Coordinates open in any map app.
Day trips
| Where | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Bhaktapur | Taxi or bus 40–90 min | Half or full day |
| Nagarkot | Taxi or bus 1–2 h | Sunrise or an overnight |
| Changu Narayan | Taxi 45–60 min | Half day |
| Pokhara | Flight 30 min or bus 6–8 h | Overnight |
Eat
| Where | What · area | Price | Tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| Momo houses, Boudha | Steamed or fried momo with chutney · Boudha | NPR 200–400 | Budget |
| Chiya, sel roti and sweets, Basantapur | Chiya, sel roti and sweets · Basantapur, Durbar Square | NPR 60–250 | Budget |
| Street snacks and samosas | Samosa chaat, pakora, fried breads · Any street corner | NPR 50–150 | Budget |
| Dal bhat set lunch, Thamel | Dal bhat set with rice, lentils and vegetables · Thamel | NPR 350–800 | Mid-range |
| Newari khaja set, Patan | Newari khaja set with beaten rice and choila · Patan | NPR 400–1,000 | Mid-range |
| Fire and Ice Pizzeria | Pizza and pasta · Thamel | NPR 800–1,600 | Mid-range |
| Newari feast (thali) with local raksi | A full Newari set in a traditional restaurant · Thamel, Patan | NPR 2,000–4,000 | Splurge |
| Modern Nepali fine dining | A tasting menu with local ingredients · Lazimpat, Jhamsikhel | NPR 3,000–8,000 | Splurge |
Per person, one dish or one meal, 2026 estimate in rupees. Addresses change: check the day before.
Sleep
| Band | Price a night | Where | What |
|---|---|---|---|
| budget | NPR 1,500–3,500 | Thamel guesthouses and hostels | Hostels and small guesthouses |
| mid | NPR 4,500–9,000 | Thamel, Boudha, Patan | 3-star hotels and boutique guesthouses |
| splurge | NPR 15,000–40,000+ | Lazimpat, Durbar Marg, heritage hotels | 5-star and heritage palace hotels |
Per room per night in NPR, 2026 estimate.
Phrase card
| English | Say or show |
|---|---|
| Hello, greetings | Namastena-mas-tay |
| Thank you | Dhanyabaddhan-ya-bad |
| How much is this? | Yo kati ho?yo ka-ti ho |
| Too expensive | Dherai mahangodhe-rai ma-han-go |
| Not spicy, please | Piro nahalnuspee-ro na-hal-nus |
| Water, please | Paani dinuspa-ni dee-nus |
| Please use the meter | Meter ma jaanusme-ter ma ja-nus |
| Please take me to this address | Malai yo thegana maa lagnuma-lai yo the-ga-na ma lag-nu |
| No, thank you | Chaidainachai-dai-na |
| I need help | Malai sahayog chahinchama-lai sa-ha-yog cha-hin-cha |
Etiquette, safety and scams
Etiquette
- Temples and stupas: Remove shoes where marked; walk clockwise around stupas; do not touch offerings or step over them.
- Dress: Cover shoulders and knees at shrines; avoid leather in some Hindu temples; ask at the gate.
- Photos: Ask before photographing people, especially at prayer and at cremation ghats; do not photograph the living goddess Kumari.
- Greetings: Say 'Namaste' with palms together; use the right hand to give and receive things.
- Feet and heads: Do not point your feet at a person or a shrine; do not touch a person's head.
- Tipping: 10% in restaurants if service is not added; small tips for guides and porters.
- Bargaining: Expected in tourist shops; smile and counter; not in shops with printed tags.
Red lines
- Inside Hindu and Buddhist shrines: remove shoes where marked and walk clockwise around stupas.
- Leather items and shoes are refused at some temple entrances; ask at the gate.
- Do not photograph people at prayer or cremation ghats without asking.
Scams and watch-outs
- Fake guides at Durbar Square, Pashupatinath and Boudha who start a tour and then demand a high fee: decline, or agree a fee in writing first.
- Taxis quoting fixed high fares, especially at the airport and in Thamel: use the prepaid counter, an app or agree the fare first.
- 'Monks' or 'students' who ask for donations or lead you to a shop: donate at the monastery office.
- Trek permit touts who quote prices well above the official ones: check the rules and use a registered agency.
- Counterfeit gear sold as name brands: check labels and stitching, or rent instead.
One and two days
1 day
A long layover. Skip: Patan and Pashupatinath: they need their own morning.
- 07:007:00 AMKathmandu Durbar Square
- 09:309:30 AMKumari Ghar
- 11:3011:30 AMDal bhat lunch
- 14:002:00 PMTaxi to Boudhanath
- 17:005:00 PMMomo and a circuit at dusk
Sources
Written by Voykit; facts cross-checked against these sources, last desk check 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change: check on the day.
- Nepal Tourism Board: www.welcomenepal.com/
- Tribhuvan International Airport: tiairport.com.np/
- Wikivoyage — Kathmandu: en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kathmandu
- UNESCO — Kathmandu Valley: whc.unesco.org/en/list/121/
Pocket card
Cut along the border and keep it in your wallet. Show the local-script lines to a driver.
Kathmanduकाठमाडौँ
Kripaya malai yo thegana maa lagnu
Please take me to this address
My hotel (write the name and address in the local script)
Take me to
- बौद्ध स्तूपBoudhanath Stupa
- काठमाडौँ दरबार क्षेत्रKathmandu Durbar Square
- पाटन दरबार क्षेत्रPatan Durbar Square
- पशुपतिनाथ मन्दिरPashupatinath Temple and the ghats
- कुमारी घरKumari Ghar
- हिरण्यवर्ण महाविहारGolden Temple, Patan (Hiranya Varna Mahavihar)
Most embassies are in Lainchaur, Maharajgunj and Bansbari; write your own embassy's 24-hour line below.
Give your driver a nearby landmark, not only a street name.
Voykit · checked 2026-09
Printed from Voykit (/kathmandu). Written by Voykit; checked 2026-09. Estimates only: confirm prices, hours and entry rules on the day.