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Oltenia

Base in Craiova or Târgu Jiu for 3 nights; treat the Danube and the Olt valley as day-trips, not hotel moves.

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Key facts · Romania

Best months
Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct
Currency
Romanian leu (RON, lei)
Language
Romanian
Plugs
C · F · 230 V
Time zone
EET, UTC+2
Month by month hereIn detail ↓
Rules in force · 8Non-EU visitors get 90 days in any rolling 180-day window…Mine-suspected land still exists in Bosnia and Herzegovin…
  • Europe ↗Non-EU visitors get 90 days in any rolling 180-day window, counted across all 29 Schengen states together — not per country; the Entry/Exit System now logs each crossing, so an overstay is detected automatically.
  • Europe ↗On the first Schengen entry since EES began, non-EU travellers give four fingerprints and a face photo at the border instead of a passport stamp; there is nothing to apply for or pay in advance.
  • Balkans ↗Mine-suspected land still exists in Bosnia and Herzegovina and in pockets of Croatia's former front line: outside towns keep to tarmac and waymarked paths, and treat red triangle signs and taped-off fields as absolute.
  • Balkans ↗Serbia refuses onward entry to travellers who reached Kosovo from a third country and then try to cross straight into Serbia; route Kosovo–Serbia legs through North Macedonia or Montenegro, or start the loop in Serbia.
  • Balkans ↗Hire cars need written permission from the rental company and valid insurance for every country on the line; Kosovo sells its own border insurance and some contracts exclude Albania, Kosovo or Bosnia outright.
  • Romania ↗Romania is in the EU and the Schengen area; the EU Entry/Exit System applies to non-EU visitors. Check the official EU and Romanian sources for your passport.
  • Romania ↗Drivers need an electronic road vignette (rovinieta) on national roads; rental cars normally include it, but check.
  • Romania ↗Brown bears live in the Carpathians and sometimes enter towns and roadsides: never feed or approach them, and follow local warnings.

Oltenia is Romania's southwest: five counties (Dolj, Gorj, Vâlcea, Olt, Mehedinți) between the Danube and the Olt. It is not a first-trip region — most visitors come for one thing (the Brâncuși ensemble at Târgu Jiu, the Danube gorge, a spa week at Călimănești) and pass through. Sleep in Craiova for the airport and city food, in Târgu Jiu for Brâncuși and the mountains; the Danube towns and the Olt valley resorts are day-trips or single nights.

Where to sleep

9 places in this region

Sleep base

  • CraiovaCity guide

    Largest city, CRA airport, best restaurant and hotel supply in the region.

    Best Apr–Jun, Sep–Oct

    Open Craiova →

  • Târgu JiuCity guide

    Brâncuși ensemble in the city park; gateway to the Gorj mountains and Rânca.

    Best May–Sep

    Open Târgu Jiu →

Day trip

  • HorezuCity guide

    Pottery village and the Horezu monastery; ski at Rânca above it.

    Best May–Sep

    Open Horezu →

  • CalafatCity guide

    Danube port opposite Vidin, Bulgaria; Bistreț lake bird reserve east of town.

    Best May–Sep

    Open Calafat →

Also here

Plan the nights

How to split the nights, day-trips and what to do with your bags

Open Plan the nightsClose Plan the nights3 partsNights · Day-trips · Bags

Night sequences

3 nights
Craiova 2 + Târgu Jiu 1 (Brâncuși on the way north)
5 nights
Craiova 2 + Drobeta-Turnu Severin 1 + Târgu Jiu 2
7 nights
Craiova 2 + Calafat or Drobeta 1 + Târgu Jiu 2 + Călimănești 2
  • Craiova + Târgu Jiu + Drobeta + Călimănești in 3 days is four half-days of driving on DN roads with trucks.
  • Rânca and the Transalpina road are seasonal; the high section is normally closed from late October to late May — check before driving up.
  • The Danube bank at Calafat and Drobeta is a working border area; keep documents with you.

Day-trips door to door

ToFromDoor-to-door p50Last returnNote
Târgu JiuCraiova130 minunknownTrain or DN6 by car; the Brâncuși park is a 15-minute walk from the station.
Drobeta-Turnu SeverinCraiova110 minunknownDanube bank and Iron Gates boat departures; check sailing times the day before.
HorezuRâmnicu Vâlcea70 minunknownPottery workshops close mid-afternoon; go in the morning.
CălimăneștiRâmnicu Vâlcea30 minunknownSpa baths and Cozia monastery; easy half-day.

Bags between cities

No luggage-forwarding culture here; travel with your bag or leave it at the hotel desk in Craiova or Târgu Jiu.

When to go

Months and weather

Open When to goClose When to go2 partsSeasons · Climate

Seasons at a glance

From each city's month table

Pick a month to see where to go.

Show all 12 months, country by countryHide the 12-month table
CountryJFMAMJJASOND
Craiova
Târgu Jiu
Horezu
Calafat
Drobeta-Turnu Severin
Călimănești
Râmnicu Vâlcea
Băile Govora
Romania (country-wide)
Go: the good monthsFair: workable, mixedPoor: heat, rain or hazeAvoid: storms, floods, closuresno data yet

Computed from each country’s own data; hover a country name for the source. Advisory countries are left out.

Climate strip

Month by month
ZoneJFMAMJJASOND
Craiova plain and the DanubeDolj, Olt and Mehedinți lowlandscoldcoldokbestbestokhothotbestbestokcold
Gorj and Vâlcea hillsTârgu Jiu, Rânca, Călimănești, Horezucoldcoldokokbestbestokokbestbestokcold
best: dry, mildok: workablehot: short walking windows
Craiova plain and the Danube
Continental: 35 °C (95 °F)+ July–August days, cold fog in December–January. Rain spreads through May–June.
Gorj and Vâlcea hills
Cooler than the plain; mountain roads and ski lifts depend on snow from December to March.

May–June and September–early October are the reliable windows. July–August is hot in the cities but the mountain resorts are at their busiest.

Getting in and passes

Arrival times and regional passes

Open Getting in and passesClose Getting in and passes2 partsGet in · Passes

Get in

Door-to-door p50, 2026 estimate
FromToHowp50Note
CRA (Craiova International)Craiova centreTaxi or rideshare from the terminal~15 minWizz Air routes from several European cities; no domestic flights. Confirm the current route list before booking.
BucharestCraiovaTrain (CFR) or car on the A1/DN6~3 h by train, ~2 h 45 by carFrequent trains; the A1 motorway now runs much of the way.
TimișoaraDrobeta-Turnu Severin / CraiovaTrain or car via the Danube corridor~4 h to DrobetaScenic along the Danube; slower than the map suggests.
SibiuRâmnicu Vâlcea / CraiovaCar over the Olt valley (DN7) or train~2 h to Râmnicu VâlceaThe Olt valley road is the main link between Transylvania and Oltenia.

Regional passes

Verdict first

CFR train tickets

buy

Cheap and adequate for Craiova–Târgu Jiu and Bucharest–Craiova; buy at the station or online.

Rovinieta vignette

buy

Required for any car on national roads; a short-duration vignette is enough for a regional loop.

Rânca / Transalpina tolls

check

Mountain road access and ski passes change by season; check locally.

Eat and move on

Regional food and where to go next

Open Eat and move onClose Eat and move on2 partsFood · Go next

Regional food

Where and when it works
DishWhereTiming / trap
Ciorbă de burtă and miciCraiova: city centre grillsLunch is the main meal; kitchens slow down after 21:00.
Grilled Danube fish (crap, știucă)Drobeta-Turnu Severin, CalafatAsk the price per kilo before ordering; riverside places vary widely.
Oltenian polenta with cheese and creamVillage guesthouses in Gorj and VâlceaUsually part of a fixed menu; say if you want it without pork.
Horezu pottery-cooked stews and plum brandy (țuică)Horezu and Râmnicu VâlceaȚuică is strong; small glasses, and never before driving.

Go next

Planning aids

Built from this guide's own data

Open Planning aidsClose Planning aids2 partsIn numbers · Going in…

Region in numbers

Where to sleep
2 bases
Day trips
4, 30 min to 2 h 10
Nights suggested
3–7 nights
Ways in
4 listed
Best months
May, Sep, Oct (all zones)

Going in…

Pick a month for the weather in each zone of the region, plus the country-wide rating and holidays.

Pick a month.

Deep dive

Photos, reading and every source

Open Deep diveClose Deep dive1 partSources

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