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Voykit pocket guide · Bosnia and Herzegovina
Sarajevo
Sarajevo / Сарајево
Sarajevo is a valley city: do Baščaršija and the river bridges on foot in the morning, take the tram west for the museums, and carry cash in convertible marks — most stalls and small cafés do not take cards.
Sarajevo's centre is a narrow strip along the Miljacka river, so almost everything of interest is within a 30-minute walk of Baščaršija, and one tram line covers the rest. Trips go wrong on money and on timing: cards fail at bakeries and taxis, and winter smog or a Ramadan evening changes what is open. Four clusters cover a first visit; Mostar and the Neretva valley are a day away, not a walk.
- Country
- Bosnia and Herzegovina
- Local name
- Sarajevo / Сарајево
- Best months
- Mar · Apr · May · Jun · Sep · Oct
- Time zone
- Europe/Sarajevo
- Stay
- 2 days: Baščaršija and the river bridges, then the Yellow Fortress
Checked 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change; anything marked (check) is not confirmed.
Essentials
- Currency
- BAM
- Money
- Cash for bakeries, cafés, market stalls, taxis and guesthouses; cards in hotels, larger restaurants and shops. Carry KM 5, 10 and 20 notes — small vendors cannot change KM 100 or KM 200.
- Daily spend
- Budget KM 40–70 excl. bed · Mid KM 70–140 excl. bed · High KM 140+ excl. bed (estimate; check)
- SIM and data
- Install an eSIM before you fly, or buy a tourist SIM in the city with your passport.
- Emergency
- Any emergency 112 · Police 122 · Ambulance 124 · Fire 123
- Plugs
- 230 V; types C and F. Bring an adapter for UK, US and Asian plugs.
- Tipping
- Not expected; round up in restaurants and cafés or leave about 10% for good service.
- Water
- Tap water is generally safe; bottled water is cheap and common.
- Toilets
- Cafés, museums and hotels; carry coins for paid toilets.
What things cost
| Item | Price |
|---|---|
| Bosnian coffee in a café | KM 2–4 |
| Burek or sirnica at a bakery | KM 3–6 |
| Ćevapi, 5 or 10 pieces with bread | KM 7–16 |
| Beer, half litre | KM 3.5–6 |
| Sit-down restaurant main course | KM 15–30 |
| Tram or trolleybus ticket | KM 1.8–2.5 |
| Taxi across the centre | KM 5–12 |
| Taxi from the airport to the centre | KM 20–30 |
Desk estimates, checked 2026-09; check locally.
Get in
By air
- Sarajevo International Airport (SJJ)
- SJJ to the bazaar: one pre-booked pickup or a metered airport taxi, 20–30 minutes; the risk is a late flight with no ride arranged, not the distance.
By rail and road
| Station | Serves | To the centre |
|---|---|---|
| Sarajevo Railway Station (Željeznička stanica Sarajevo) | Mostar and Konjic (scenic line), Zenica and the north (check the timetable) | Taxi about 8–10 min to Baščaršija; tram or trolleybus link nearby (check) |
| Main Bus Station (Autobuska stanica Sarajevo) | Mostar, Zagreb, Belgrade, Dubrovnik, Split, Podgorica and most towns in the Federation | Taxi about KM 5–10; ask for the meter |
| East Sarajevo (Lukavica) Bus Station (Autobuska stanica Istočno Sarajevo) | Trebinje, Višegrad, Foča, Banja Luka and Serb-entity towns | Taxi about 20–30 min or a city bus (check) |
Typical fares
- SJJ → old town, taxi
- KM 20–30, 20–30 min; ask for the meter
- Old town → Marijin Dvor, tram
- About KM 1.8–2.5 (check), 12 min
- Sarajevo → Mostar, bus or train
- About KM 20–30 (check), 2.5–3 h
Show 8 more sections and the pocket cardHideGet around, See and do, Eat, Sleep, Phrase card, Etiquette, safety and scams, One and two days, Sources, Pocket card
Get around
Walk inside the old town and along the river, ride the tram between the bazaar and Marijin Dvor, and take a taxi to the hills. The centre is 2 km (1.2 mi) end to end, and the tram covers the west.Walk inside the old town and along the river, ride the tram between the bazaar and Marijin Dvor, and take a taxi to the hills. The centre is 1.2 mi (2 km) end to end, and the tram covers the west.
| How | Fare | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| Walking | Free | Baščaršija, the river, Ferhadija and the Latin Bridge |
| Tram | About KM 1.8–2.5 (check) | Baščaršija ↔ Marijin Dvor ↔ Ilidža |
| Trolleybus and bus | About KM 1.8–2.5 (check) | The hills and suburbs the tram does not reach |
| Taxi | KM 5–12 across the centre | Bags, the airport, the hills and late night |
| Trebević cable car | About KM 15–25 return (check) | The mountain view |
| Car hire | From about KM 60 a day | Day trips outside the city |
| Bike or scooter | Check | River path on flat sections |
Fares are estimates; check before you ride.
- Passes
- No pass. Single tram tickets are cheap; taxis are metered and inexpensive for short rides.
- Late at night
- Trams stop late in the evening; taxis run all night and are the fallback (agree that the meter is on).
See and do
01Baščaršija and the SebiljSebilj i Baščaršija
The old bazaar and the reason to visit: lanes, workshops and coffee.
Hours: best Before 10:00 · Price: Free · Time: 1.5–2 hHours: best Before 10:00 AM · Price: Free · Time: 1.5–2 h · 43.8597, 18.4308
02Gazi Husrev-beg MosqueGazi Husrev-begova džamija
The largest historic mosque in the country and a quiet courtyard.
Hours: best Morning outside prayer · Price: About KM 5 · Time: 30 min · 43.8593, 18.4305
03VijećnicaVijećnica
The rebuilt city hall and a symbol of the recovery.
Hours: best Morning · Price: About KM 10 · Time: 45 min · 43.8594, 18.4341
04Latin BridgeLatinska ćuprija
The corner of the 1914 assassination.
Hours: best Any time · Price: Free · Time: 10–30 min · 43.8577, 18.4285
05Yellow Fortress at sunsetŽuta tabija
The best view of the city and a free walk.
Hours: best Sunset · Price: Free · Time: 1–1.5 h · 43.8637, 18.4380
06National Museum and the HaggadahZemaljski muzej Bosne i Hercegovine
The most complete look at the country’s past.
Hours: best Weekday morning · Price: About KM 10 · Time: 1.5 h · 43.8539, 18.3982
07Gallery 11/07/95Galerija 11/07/95
A serious account of the Srebrenica genocide.
Hours: best Weekday · Price: About KM 10 · Time: 1 h · 43.8589, 18.4268
08Trebević cable carTrebevićka žičara
The valley view and the Olympic track.
Hours: best Clear morning · Price: About KM 15–25 · Time: Half day · 43.8605, 18.4392
09Svrzo HouseSvrzina kuća
A small look at Ottoman family life.
Hours: best Morning · Price: About KM 5 · Time: 30 min · 43.8603, 18.4297
10Ćevapi at a bazaar grill
The city’s signature meal; cheap and quick.
Hours: best Before 12:00 · Price: KM 7–16 · Time: 45 minHours: best Before 12:00 PM · Price: KM 7–16 · Time: 45 min · 43.8592, 18.4305
Hours and prices are desk estimates (checked 2026-09); anything marked (check) is not confirmed. Coordinates open in any map app.
Day trips
| Where | How | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Mostar | Train or bus about 2.5–3 h each way | Full day — leave by 07:30Full day — leave by 7:30 AM |
| Vrelo Bosne springs | Tram to Ilidža, then a short walk or carriage | Half day |
| Bjelašnica and Igman mountains | Taxi or organised tour about 45 min | Half to full day |
| Tunnel of Hope museum | Taxi or tour about 25 min | Half day |
Eat
| Where | What · area | Price | Tier |
|---|---|---|---|
| Buregdžinica Bosna | Burek and yoghurt · Baščaršija | KM 3–6 | Budget |
| Buregdžinica Sač | Pie baked under a sač lid · Bravadžiluk | KM 3–6 | Budget |
| Ćevabdžinica Hodžić | Ćevapi, 5 pieces · Sarači | KM 7–9 | Budget |
| Markale market | Fruit, cheese and bread · Ferhadija | KM 3–8 | Budget |
| Ćevabdžinica Željo | Ćevapi with kajmak · Kundurdžiluk | KM 10–16 | Mid-range |
| Bosnian coffee house on Baščaršija (choose a busy one) | Coffee with sweets · Baščaršija | KM 4–8 | Mid-range |
| A trout restaurant (confirm locally) | Grilled trout · Old town or Ilidža | KM 15–25 | Mid-range |
| Inat Kuća | Bosnian pot and tufahija · Obala Kulina bana | KM 25–40 | Splurge |
| Dveri | Sogan-dolma and lamb · Prote Bakovića | KM 25–40 | Splurge |
Per person, one dish or one meal, 2026 estimate in KM. Addresses change: check the day before.
Sleep
| Band | Price a night | Where | What |
|---|---|---|---|
| budget | KM 20–40 dorm bed · KM 60–110 double | Baščaršija and Bistrik | Hostels, guesthouses |
| mid | KM 120–260 | Baščaršija, Ferhadija, Marijin Dvor | 3–4 star hotels, boutique guesthouses |
| high | KM 260–450 | Marijin Dvor and the old town | 4–5 star hotels |
| splurge | KM 450–900+ | Old town and Marijin Dvor | Luxury hotels and boutique heritage houses |
Per room per night in KM, 2026 estimate; August (Film Festival) and New Year add 30–80%.
Phrase card
| English | Say or show |
|---|---|
| Hello | Dobar dandoh-bar dahn |
| Thank you | Hvalahvah-lah |
| One coffee, please | Jednu kafu, molimyed-noo kah-foo moh-leem |
| The bill, please | Račun, molimrah-choon moh-leem |
| How much is this? | Koliko košta?koh-lee-koh kosh-tah |
| Without meat, please | Bez mesa, molimbez meh-sah moh-leem |
| Where is the tram? | Gdje je tramvaj?gdyeh yeh trahm-vy |
| To this address, please | Na ovu adresu, molimnah oh-voo ah-dreh-soo moh-leem |
Etiquette, safety and scams
Etiquette
- Mosques: Cover shoulders and knees; women cover hair where signs say; remove shoes; do not enter during prayer or photograph people praying.
- Homes: Take your shoes off at the door; bring a small gift such as sweets; expect coffee and something to eat.
- Coffee: It is called Bosnian coffee; sip slowly and do not stir the grounds; a coffee is an invitation to talk.
- Tipping: Round up or leave about 10% in restaurants when service is not included; not expected for coffee.
- Greetings: A handshake and eye contact; among friends, cheek kisses.
- The war and politics: Listen more than you comment; do not take sides on the 1992–95 siege or ethnic politics.
- Smoking: Common in cafés and bars; ask for a non-smoking table where there is one (check).
- Photos: Ask before photographing people; do not photograph worshippers or memorials as a backdrop.
Red lines
- Do not photograph people praying and remove shoes at mosque doors.
- Do not take sides on the 1992–95 siege or on ethnic politics; listen more than you comment.
- Do not walk onto unmarked ground on the hills above the city.
Scams and watch-outs
- Taxis without a meter or with a fast meter: use a marked taxi, ask for the meter before you set off, or book by phone or app.
- Exchange booths and 'euro at a good rate' offers: use a bank or ATM and keep small notes.
- Restaurants on the bazaar edge that add a cover charge or price by weight without saying so: check the menu and ask the price before you order.
- Souvenir shops that sell 'antique' or war-era items: buy only from established shops and check export rules.
One and two days
1 day
A stopover or a day before a bus trip. Skip: The museums, the cable car and Mostar: all need more time.
- 09:009:00 AMSebilj and the bazaar lanes
- 10:3010:30 AMGazi Husrev-beg Mosque
- 12:0012:00 PMĆevapi lunch
- 13:301:30 PMVijećnica and the river walk
- 15:303:30 PMLatin Bridge and Ferhadija
- 18:306:30 PMYellow Fortress at sunset
2 days
The usual Sarajevo stay. Skip: The cable car and Mostar.
Day 1 — Bazaar, mosque, river
- 09:009:00 AMSebilj and coffee
- 10:3010:30 AMGazi Husrev-beg Mosque
- 12:0012:00 PMĆevapi
- 14:002:00 PMSvrzo House
- 16:004:00 PMVijećnica
- 19:007:00 PMDinner at Inat Kuća
Day 2 — Bridges, museums, sunset
- 09:009:00 AMBurek breakfast
- 10:0010:00 AMLatin Bridge
- 11:0011:00 AMSacred Heart Cathedral
- 12:0012:00 PMGallery 11/07/95
- 14:302:30 PMTram to the National Museum
- 18:306:30 PMYellow Fortress at sunset
Sources
Written by Voykit; facts cross-checked against these sources, last desk check 2026-09. Prices, hours and rules change: check on the day.
- Sarajevo Tourism Association: www.sarajevo.travel/
- Sarajevo International Airport: www.sarajevo-airport.ba/
- Wikivoyage — Sarajevo: en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sarajevo
- Wikitravel: Sarajevo: wikitravel.org/en/Sarajevo
Pocket card
Cut along the border and keep it in your wallet. Show the local-script lines to a driver.
SarajevoSarajevo / Сарајево
Na ovu adresu, molim
Please take me to this address
My hotel (write the name and address in the local script)
Take me to
- Sebilj i BaščaršijaSebilj and Baščaršija square
- Gazi Husrev-begova džamijaGazi Husrev-beg Mosque
- VijećnicaVijećnica (City Hall)
- Latinska ćuprijaLatin Bridge
- Žuta tabijaYellow Fortress (Žuta tabija)
- Zemaljski muzej Bosne i HercegovineNational Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Most embassies are in the Marijin Dvor and Sarajevo Centre area; write your own embassy’s 24-hour line below.
Most staff in cafés and hotels speak some English; older shopkeepers may not. Show the street name on your phone.
Voykit · checked 2026-09
Printed from Voykit (/sarajevo). Written by Voykit; checked 2026-09. Estimates only: confirm prices, hours and entry rules on the day.